Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Cesky Raj - Bohemian Paradise.


Just south of Jablonec nad Nisou is Cesky Raj, also known as Bohemian Paradise. It is a huge National park which includes cities and towns like Zelezny Brod, Turnov, Semily and hundreds of little villages all scattered throughout the forests and pastures of Bohemia. It is a magnet for nature enthusiasts and bikers, mountain climbers, river rafters, picnickers and everyone else; like J-Me and I.

When we drive to Jablonec from Prague we pass one of the mountainous outcroppings of Cesky Raj which can be seen right off the freeway.
We try to make a side trip there every year, parking our car at the bottom and hiking up to a rustic, quaint pension and bar at the top.


After a beer and lunch we hike back down to our car and on to Jablonec.


sandstone rock in the hillside

The fascinating thing about this section of Cesky Raj is that the rock cropping dominates this region of surrounding farmland, so that when invading armies from time immemorial approached the local villages the townspeople would retreat up into the mountain area to hide from the invading armies. There are hundreds of trails amongst the rocks, with ladders and platforms and caves in which to hide and evade the soldiers searching for them. The wooden ladders could be pulled up behind the villagers, and rocks could be thrown down on the invaders from the cliffs.




Although the ladders and walkways are newly built today, they are part of the trails threading through this part of Cesky Raj, and are reminiscent of those ancient days.


 This is not Guy- But some stranger photo bombed our shot.

Another part of Cesky Raj is Mala Skala (little Rocks) which is also filled with ruins of castles and trails leading through the mountains and rocks and rivers. Here also you will find bead factories, and small workshops for garnet jewelry production. Turnov is just around the corner of the river to the south, and Zelezny Brod to the north. It is more rustic, rural and isolated here than Jablonec, but just as steeped in the glass bead and garnet jewelry business as Jablonec nad Nisou, Smrzovka and Zasada.





If you want to slow down the pace, take a few days to enjoy life, smell the coffee, eat really good food and interact with the locals, then Cesky Raj is the place to do it.










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